著者:David
译者:Boya. Y
单车气候行(中国篇)
第四站:从兰州到包头
我们不得不把单车留在杰瑞德(和平队的那位朋友)家里,做一件离开旧金山之后就没做过的事——乘飞机。因为签证有期限,我们必须离开大陆:尽管签证有效期是一年,但每次入境只有三十天。我们已经待了差不多三十天,再拖一会儿就别想离开大陆回国了。(我们本想在内地延长签证期限,但是要耗上一周,非常麻烦琐碎,每人还要花上一百美元。)
在香港的几天非常棒——对此我马上要再发一篇博文。简易版本是这样:之前在中亚和中国西部,我们一直靠雀巢咖啡和牦牛制品维生,现在身处一个现代化的富裕都市,一方面可以给我们的设备补充一些质量过硬的替换品,另一方面还能每天喝一杯拿铁。我们在这里见了几个环境方面的专家,还正好碰上了一些运动,但我们离开大陆后才会把它发出来。(这种自我监督有点傻气,因为我怀疑到底有几个中国官员会来看这篇博文——如果真的有的话,你好!我希望你喜欢这些骑车穿过你们国家的故事。我们在这里真的很开心,尤其喜欢你们的美食!请不要拘束,尽管发邮件来,我会加你进联系人名单,把更新内容发给你,这样你就不用翻这篇文章,免得再看到什么有关中国的负面信息了。)
我们回到兰州,杰瑞德再次慷慨地收留了我们,还把卧室让出来,自己睡客厅。所有和平队志愿者到了中国都教英语,杰瑞德也是。他和张掖的老师一样,也邀请我们跟学生讲讲旅途见闻。但是在张掖,老师让我们不要谈论气候变化。他们担心学生会跟别人说:课堂里讲了些不利于中国形象的问题,这样他们就有麻烦了。不过兰州的大学好像就自由多了,谈论气候变化显然没有问题。不管我们怎么定义“自由”,它在中国各地似乎都不尽相同,有些地方限制得更严,有些地方则松一些。在兰州,我们把旅途见闻的幻灯片放给学生看,还展示了一个关于中国气候变化的短片。
本来计划第二天出发,但是我受了寒觉得恶心,几乎下不了地。也就是说接下来几天我都得占着杰瑞德的床,在我恢复期间他只能睡客厅沙发。接下来两天他的房间成了病菌重灾区。我真的不记得那两天发生了什么,只有一点,当你在单车之行中生病,有人陪伴真的、真的、真的太好了。杰瑞德是一位非常棒的主人,没有他的帮忙我俩一定会变成无头苍蝇。
第三天我觉得恢复得差不多了,下午早些时候我们就开始向东出发。不巧的是,林赛也开始恶心,但是她还能骑车。我们的计划是沿着兰州郊区骑,然后搭便车到包头,再骑一周就能到北京了。
兰州空气很糟(杰瑞德说人们管这个叫“雾”)。我们沿着黄河北边骑车(黄河与其说是黄色不如说是棕色),远方的建筑拔地而起,空气因为雾霾显得灰暗。我们骑出兰州,看见四处都在建设中,这是城镇郊区的典型现象,还有推土机正在推平一座山头——我们听说兰州为了城市建设已经推平了几百座小山头。
如果说中国没有房地产泡沫那就怪了。我看乡下没住什么人——大部分人似乎都住到了城里。但是城里依然有很多空荡荡的、刚建成的高楼;而四处依旧在新建楼盘。我们不止一次看到那种像是整个城市都在建设中的状况。杰瑞德告诉我们这些楼盘有时候才建几个月就拆了,因为它们不再“符合政策”——也许建的时候就不合政策了。也许有些建筑实际上还是“必要的”,中国东部的几亿人口可能西迁,涌入这些楼盘。但是从经济上来说,这种建设不是长远之道。看见那么多空房子以及施工中的楼盘让我感到担忧,有人肯定亏了很多钱。
我们最后只搭了三次车就从兰州到了包头,这有九百千米的距离。搭便车是一种冒险,当你停下来伸出大拇指(或者招手,这似乎是中国的方式),你完全不清楚要等多久,可能几分钟也可能几小时。我喜欢这种不确定性,林赛却不喜欢。(过去我们解决这个矛盾的办法是不去碰它,除非时间紧迫。在林赛表示她有多不喜欢搭便车之后,我指出我们没有余裕去做别的事情——所以最后还是搭了顺风车。我非常确定接下来几年我俩的婚姻仍会幸福美满。)
我们这次的策略是骑车到高速公路入口——单车不能上高速公路,我们要在那里用之前中国骑友给我们的纸条找到一辆车。第一次纸条起效了,一个开小卡车的人停了三十分钟,然后带了我们一个半小时,把我们送到了一个叫白银的小镇。司机告诉我们(这是我们猜的):如果还想继续北上,就要骑车到另一个公路入口。我们费了好一阵试图和他沟通,但是中文实在不够好,手机上的谷歌翻译虽然在塔吉克斯坦用得好好的,但是在中国基本瘫痪,哪怕我换了当地的手机卡(这不是谷歌的问题——中国不让任何外国iphone使用3G网络,所以我的手机很慢,还得绕过防火墙,就更慢了。)中国用不了所有的谷歌服务,希望你不在中国!
司机给我们写了个纸条,我想他是想让我们拿这个给收费站工作人员看,那里的人会帮着找车。但是我们也不清楚,纸条上写着中文,看中文比说起来更费劲。我们试图骑车穿过城市,首先就路过了几栋正在建设中的高楼大厦,但是在日落前没能骑到城市尽头。我们晚上不搭便车,因为看不见司机的脸,无法判断是否能相信他,所以我们要了一间可能是二十美元能住到的最好的房间。
第二段我们搭的是巴士——收费站工作人员告诉我们几乎没有车从这个小镇往北走,所以我们决定如果有巴士经过收费站,就花钱搭车。我们一直沿着黄河走了四个小时,到了四百千米外的银川,吃了一顿下午餐,骑车到了高速公路入口,把第一个司机给我们写的纸条亮出来——改了目的地。很幸运的是,工作人员叫米切尔,他说英语(中国讲英语的人都有一个英文名,也许是因为对我们这种说英语的人而言,念出一个中国名字就够难了,更别说记住)。米切尔一辆辆地拦车,通常要跑出收费站拦住那些驶向其他收费站的车。一个半小时之后,一辆十八轮的中国邮政卡车停下来,司机简单听米切尔说了几句就招呼我们上车。车后厢只放了三分之一的货,放两辆单车绰绰有余。驾驶室还有一个空位,座位后还有一张床;林赛睡床我坐座位,我们开始驶向包头。
一开始,我以为中国邮政的司机不想带我们,不过是受米切尔委托才应下来的。他剃了一头板寸,门牙掉了两颗,好像在专心致志开车,沉默寡言。我们尝试着调动为数不多的中文和他聊天,他偶尔笑一笑。我问他家里有几口人,有没有儿子女儿,他的年纪多大——他五十出头,有一个二十多岁的儿子,家是呼和浩特的。他正开车去那里,会路过我们的目的地包头。他说他可以把我们送到包头,但是要花上一天半,晚上得待在乌海,这是汽车途经的一个城市。我们同意晚上在乌海找一间旅馆,第二天再跟着司机上路。
我们到了乌海,一个人口五十万的城镇,司机试图帮我们找一家旅店。在中国,大多数宾馆,尤其是便宜的旅馆都不能接待外宾——只有三星及以上的宾馆(一般更贵些)才有资格。这位中国邮政的司机把车停在宾馆前,跑进去又跑出来,对于我们不能住宾馆这件事很是震惊。
我们跑到城市另一头,找到了一个能接待我们的宾馆,这是第三个能招待外国人但是没有房间的宾馆。在之前就被这些接待外宾的规定搞烦了,我俩看到当地人也为这些规定而懊恼,反而感到有些愉悦。他最后告诉我们中国邮局有空房间可以用。这听上去更有趣——也比宾馆更便宜,我们一口答应了。混熟之后,这位司机请我们吃晚饭,不让我们出钱,还开车带我们去中国邮局。在乌海邮局二楼,我们找到了一间有双层床的房子,灯光之下有一层薄薄的毯子,非常不错。
早上我们看到五个中国邮政的员工从司机车上卸货,给各种盒子分类。一切都是连丢带踢完成的,看上去像是在模仿搏击一样。我心里记了一条,再也不要通过中国邮政寄送任何易碎物品了。但另一方面,中国邮政运送我俩和我们的单车却很有效率,既舒服又划算。
最后一天没什么事情。我们停下来吃中饭,几乎和我们去过的所有其他餐馆一样,每个人都想和外国人合影。大概下午三点钟,我们交换了微信,拍了几张照,就在门口和他们告别,然后冲向包头,骑车到城里,那里有暖淋浴(warmshower.org)网站*的招待者在等着我们。
*Warm Showers(暖淋浴)社区是一个面向全球自行车旅行者的接待互助网站。
《Ride for Climate》中文译文版权为City Atlas所有。
转载请注明。
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