著者:Lindsay
译者:Boya. Y
特别鸣谢:Tenzin བསྟན་འཛིན་རྒྱལ་མཚན་ 对本文翻译提供了藏传佛教相关知识。
单车气候行(中国篇)
第三站:从西宁到兰州
在《孤独星球》中,西宁是一个“宜人的省会城市”。我本以为能见着那种老式木屋,在雅致的屋檐下,一间接着一间,沿着宁静的街巷排开。可是我错了:西宁虽然算不上大城市,却也是我们经过里海之后看到的最大最忙的城市。交通主干至少四车道,过马路充满挑战——绿灯一亮,同一条轴上的车都可以行驶,这其中还包括转弯车辆。结果一到绿灯,所有的车一齐发动——争先恐后地抢在别人穿过路口之前先行通过,左转的洪流与直走的车辆相冲突,也阻挡了过马路的行人。虽然我们习惯了这套做法,但还是不免感到困惑:这种行为并不是因为缺乏规范,相反,交通规则助长了这种风气。
在西宁,我们拜访了大卫在大学的一位朋友,她在这一带居住多年,正在学习藏医,说得一口流利的安多藏语(她就是上篇日志里我们的“电话翻译”)。我们问了她一大堆在中国这一带生活的感想,还去寺庙和佛教市场游玩。这一回,我的预期和实际情况又出现了偏差——旅游指南里写了很多卖服饰织物的小店子,但是早在几个月前,旧市场就拆了,小贩都挪到了一座更像是“商场”的建筑里。于是我们去了这家四层楼高的商场,电梯上的经幡纹丝不动、死气沉沉。我们从一家逛到另一家,有卖僧袍的,卖酥油(用来点酥油灯)的,还有卖佛像的。这里的人形形色色——主要是来买香、衣服和艺术品的僧人和西藏人,也有像我俩这样的旅客。一切都和想象中的完全不一样。不过尽管这个地方灵魂空洞,小贩和买家还是增添了几分真实感。下一段旅途启程之前,我们在西宁也享受了一些西式美食——烘焙食品和优质咖啡。
我们从西宁出来得比较晚,因为路过东关清真大寺时看见人们聚集在此庆祝古尔邦节(又称宰牲节,宁夏当地人称为“大德尔”) ,这是为了纪念易卜拉欣(基督教译为亚伯拉罕)甘愿献祭儿子易司哈格(基督教译为以实玛利)的事迹。当人们涌向清真寺、在人行道或者清真寺外的道路上铺开垫子时,有些细节特别打眼:来这里的都是男人;警察封了路不让车辆通行。我觉得这样挺好,没有车辆进出的话,即使寺里已经满了,市民还可以到外面来庆祝。不过我还看到街边停了几辆装甲车,警察也拿着自动武器。街面挤得连单车都开不过,我们只能推着单车开道,穿过人群到了清真寺前面。我觉得自己已经习惯成为人群中唯一的女性了——之前途经许多穆斯林国家,我都和当地人一起吃饭或者出席活动——但我在这里确实感到格格不入。
重新爬上单车,我们向城外骑去,穿过整个正在建设中的新城市。有的路在地图上根本找不着,路边的图片描绘着将来的景象——大型工业园区、新的居民区以及其他各种建筑都一同施工。建设之快,规模之大让我们晕头转向。摆脱了西宁日益扩张的郊区之后,我们路过了几个小镇,景色基本一致:人们站在刚宰的羊羔旁庆祝节日。我们穿过了几个小镇外的牧场,人们正在宰杀牦牛。我们停下来聊了几句,才这么一小会儿,就见几头牦牛从活蹦乱跳的动物被拆解成各种器官组织。割喉放血(花了大概五分钟才停止抽动——还有意识?或者只是肌肉抽搐?)之后再砍去头和四肢,扒下皮毛,这要四个男子汉外加一块斧背才能完成。人们把内脏拿出来,把牛胃清空(一堆堆冒着热气、半消化的草显示着刚刚有多少动物被宰杀),在把排骨剁开。
这场面既引人入胜又让人难受。屠宰过程看起来干净利落,但是有一头牦牛就栓在一旁目睹全程,她明显吓坏了。据我所知,伊斯兰教义禁止让动物看到宰杀场景,真希望刚才人们能遵守这一条教义。我觉得这头牦牛并不清楚究竟发生了什么,但是她喘得很急,时不时跑起圈来,踩踏着刚宰的牦牛。下一个肯定就是她了,但是我们没有留下来看到最后。牦牛见我们离开,也很伤心地摔倒在地上。我并不太了解有关宰牲的节日和法律,但奇怪的是,这件事并没有影响我对于食肉的看法(我感到矛盾,见前一篇喀什葛尔的日志)。我从小就一直思考着这种行为的伦理性,也从环境和健康的角度考虑过;这一幕正好给提供了一次更加切实生动的经历。
这天晚上,我们问一户人家可不可以在他家院子里搭帐篷。我们了解到这一带穆斯林讲的是一种完全不同的语言,万幸的是这家父亲看得懂我们的纸条,他很友好地告诉我们要去哪里搭帐篷,还给了一壶热水。早上离开的时候,这家孩子和一些邻居聚过来看着我们吱吱地笑。第二天的路线大部分都沿着黄河以及黄河边一条施工中的公路。我们看着一条大道飞快无比地修起来,感到很是震惊;这一河段附近几乎没有村镇,只有施工营地。工人似乎是搬到这里来住了,尽管现在是黄金周,中国其他地方都在欢度假日,建筑工人和工程师们仍然在高悬河面的塔桥上忙着修路。
骑到下午,清真寺慢慢少了,取而代之的是佛塔。傍晚的时候我们发现自己正路过铜仁附近的一个藏族村庄,想在施工中的寺庙里扎营——工人们的帐篷就在外面,我们觉得把帐篷搭旁边应该没问题——但是他们可能没听懂,或者是拒绝了,反正我们只能继续往前骑。当我们正要放弃,准备穿过田地骑到黄河边的时候,大卫在一家人门口遇到了一个小男孩。这家人的中文足够我们使用有限的语言技巧进行沟通。他们邀请我俩近来。房子外墙看上去像是砖砌的,内部却是松木和瓷砖,几间房子围着庭院,里面种了几棵树,中间一个香炉。一家人正围着木炉子吃晚饭,他们招呼我俩加入。盘子里堆满了新鲜出锅、美味可口的饺子,洋葱萝卜肉馅,每一只都塞得满满的。接着这家人给我们整理了一间空屋,暖上炕,铺上毯子。
这晚我们睡得很舒服,不过问厕所在哪的时候有点尴尬。他们领我们去院子边上另一间屋子里,两块脚踏板下是一个浅坑,连着另一个大一点差不多深的坑,里面有灰,还有一些——排泄物——我只能这么猜了。不管怎样,没有异味、干净舒适,但是我听说在堆肥厕所里只能上大号,大卫鼓足勇气问上小号怎么办。他们全笑了,说都应该在厕所里解决。我还是不太清楚这个机制,不过做客期间我俩应该没有搞砸。
第二天我们遇到一对夫妇,他们正在享受为期三年的加泰罗尼亚到新西兰之旅。我们分享了几个旅行建议,还给了一些藏族妇女慷慨赠送的梨子。那天穿过了几个藏族村庄,在其中一个,我们遇到了一位会点英语的僧人,他邀请我们参观,带我们走过路边一排排的寺院,还告诉我们他作为僧人的生活——他最喜欢的事情是研究逻辑学。我们不能进寺庙,但是他又带我们到山上去,这样就能一览全景。不过最高兴的事情还是遇到了这位僧人的同伴们,大家都非常激动地跟我们合影。
那一晚我们住在另一户人家里。语言完全不通——我俩以为人家已经吃过了,就自己煮方便面,结果他们又端来两碗美味的汤面。后来单车倒下来撞了玻璃,我们这才试图沟通。这一家的房子正面全是玻璃窗,我们的单车倒下来撞坏了一扇。这可吓坏我俩了。这家人没什么反应——不生气,却反而让人放不下心,我们做了各种尝试:比划着道歉,拿出钱来表示我们愿意花钱修好它。翻译朋友这会儿联系不上,不过我们还是可以在《孤独星球》里找到“对不起”和“多少钱”这两句话。他们好像能看懂书上的古藏语,尽管他们说的是另一种方言。这家人指了指外面放的一块玻璃,表示可以自己修好。不久之后,一位衣着体面的男士突然出现并且掌控了局面。他伸手在大卫鼻子前晃了晃,表示要钱。好!多少呢?他没说,而是问我们愿意付多少。我们拿出100元,他摇头,于是我们又掏出手机让他在计算器上打出想要的数目。我真的连在旧金山修窗子要多少钱都不知道,更别说在中国甘肃省了,所以看到他打了50元的时候非常开心。之后事情就都解决了,他又做手势让大家一起合照。很有趣的是,之前这户人家是不愿意拍照的。看来打坏窗户之后一脸歉意,并且花钱赔偿,显然可以让人熟络起来。
第二天早上,这家的儿子和朋友在院子里骑我的单车,大卫试着修刹车结果发现零件丢了,我们都笑傻了。他们的糌粑是我们在高原上吃过最美味的——青稞,酥油和糖的完美结合,作为单车之行的早餐再合适不过。我们骑到夏河县,下午游览了拉卜楞寺,这是西藏自治区外最大的藏传佛教寺庙之一。幸运的是这一天是国庆最后一天——几乎没有旅行团,基本上就是我们和僧人。一位年轻的僧侣会说一点英语,带着我们参观了主要的建筑,包括陈列着一排排酥油雕塑的房间,这些雕塑和我的想象都不一样,但是确实让房里多了股酸臭味。我们还学着其他几百位朝圣者的样子绕着寺院转经,这是他们的宗教仪式。
我对藏传佛教知之甚少,所以我只能简单说一点(欢迎指正)——绕着寺庙或者佛塔这样的佛教圣地行走,转路边的转经筒。转经筒上紧紧裹着一层纸,纸上写着经文,转动起来就像是反复诵读经文一样。人们转经的时候很严肃。他们到拉卜楞寺这样的地方朝拜,一旦开始就不会随意停下。大部分朝拜者都是年长的女性,而且在传统长袍之下,她们都穿着色彩鲜亮的运动鞋。我觉得自己有点不知所措,因为我受周围气氛的影响,试着转动每一个转经筒,但是那些藏族妇女却只是沿着路快速向下走去,娴熟地用戴着手套的手转动经筒。
在夏河县,我们买了一些描绘着各种佛像和其他图像的唐卡。附近的铜仁是个寺院镇,也是唐卡艺术的中心,但是我们没有时间去,不过在夏河也有艺术家。我们比较匆忙,因为想要继续骑车,最后决定买智慧佛,他把宝剑举过头顶,斩断愚昧和仇恨。我们还看中了另一幅画,但是手工唐卡非常昂贵,而我们又不想超出预算。出人意料的是,等我们第三次回到这家店子,店里的画家说如果我们真心喜欢这幅画,他的老师愿意送给我们。“哎呀,太感谢了!”我们说到。“要多少钱呢?”“不要钱,”她回答,“免费的——作为一份礼物。他喜欢美国人。”我们深受感动——这位艺术家在圣达菲待过一段时间,对美国怀有好感。这种情况之前发生过好几次,人们对我们非常友好,就因为喜欢我们的国家。我俩受宠若惊,希望自己能加深美国在这些人心中的好印象,也顺带消除另一些人心中的坏印象。
那晚我们在河边牧地驻扎,第二天还有好长一段路,所以日出前我俩就爬起来上路了。摸黑骑车其实很有趣——路上几乎没有车,都是下坡路,我们穿过村庄观赏日出,看着人们起床开始新的一天,空气里满是桑烟的味道,这是常见的香。路上有不少隧道,写着“单车禁行”,万幸的是,还有小路可以绕行。路过一个吸引人的藏族村庄时,我们第三次绕道,在一间寺庙前停下,寺庙群山环绕,山上层林尽染。有几个人正绕着寺庙转经,我们进去后看鞋子散得到处都是(进寺庙要脱鞋),但是这些鞋子大部分都很小,很多都有卡通动物图像。我们静静站着,欣赏壁画,我还听见里面传来低声诵经的声音。突然间诵经声停了下来,取而代之的是一阵急促的脚步声。僧人也会跑来跑去?这好像不是他们的风格。门突然打开,里面一下子窜出十来个小男孩,都穿着黑红色的僧袍。他们穿上鞋子跑到外面欢笑嬉闹。诵经声配上生机勃勃的脚步声别有一番情致,一个小孩牵着老师的手,这场景既是稀松平常又充满异国情调。一位僧人会说一点英语,他邀请我们喝茶,吃糌粑,还给我们看了他收藏的钱币——后来我们用塔吉克钱币跟他换了一些——这些钱币的朝代听起来有点年头(我觉得自己赚到了)。
我们决定抄小路去水库边的渡口,路过了一个宁静的小村庄,地里种着玉米,每个收割的人都挥手和我们打招呼。这个村庄建于山崖之上,高悬于黄河的水库上方,我们看错地图,骑到了一个悬崖的尽头。不过幸运的是旁边有条小道顺着崖边蜿蜒向下,我们之前走过这种小路,所以还能骑到水边,结果却发现那里根本没有谷歌地图上的渡口,反而被告知要沿着水库骑到半路才能找到渡口。我们不信,因为地图显示那边根本没有路。好吧,在中国,地图的保质期大概只有几个月,因为路修得太快了。太阳就要落山了,而我们还不知道要骑多久,于是我俩商量着坐船穿过水库到我们原定的目的地去。“小渡船”有点贵了,但是作为补偿我们看到了黄河上的月食景观。河另一边实际上路更少——还在施工中,工人们都还没来得及吼人,我们就不小心骑到了刚铺的水泥上。(伙计们不好意思啊!)最后还是找到了露营的地方,在水库岸边,今天就骑到这里啦。
抄了近路,第二天只要从容地骑九十公里。不过我们发现附近是炳灵寺,就在水库另一边,寺里收藏着各种佛像雕塑,于是我俩赶在最后关头从刘家峡搭上船,在炳灵寺挥霍了四小时。佛像固然有趣,周围又风景优美,但是我俩依旧兴致不高,有点后悔绕了远路。不过我们下午三点半出发,狂赶最后六十五公里,当天晚上到了兰州。
第一段爬坡总高六百米,总长二十千米,相应的,接下来是一段顺利的下坡路,直通兰州。入城的这一段嘈杂喧嚣——中国各地的公路看上去几乎总处于施工中,四处都交通堵塞。我俩费了好大劲才从停滞的轿车卡车中穿过,不过黄河边的人行道骑上去相对舒适一些。河边都是冒着烟的工厂,对面的山阡陌纵横,好像开垦了小型梯田防止水土流失。
兰州位于黄土高原边缘,黄土高原这个名字取自这一代主要的风成沉积物。这种沉积物有数米厚,非常利于农业种植,但同时也容易受水土流失的影响。经年累月的伐木以及耕作造成了大面积水土流失,泥沙流入黄河,黄河也因此得名。政府正在执行一系列还林政策,效果有好有坏。一到兰州,我们就找去了和平队志愿者家里,这位是通过张掖的朋友认识的。主人招待我们洗了个豪华澡,晚饭吃意大利面,还有黄河黑啤,这是我们目前为止在中国喝过最像样的啤酒。
《Ride for Climate》中文译文版权为City Atlas所有。
转载请注明。
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비아그라(실데나필)는 남성의 발기부전 치료에 사용되는 약물입니다. 의사의 감독 없이 정기적으로 비아그라를 복용하는 것은 권장되지 않으며 심각한 부작용을 일으킬 수 있다는 점에 유의해야 합니다.
의료 제공자의 지시에 따라 복용하는 경우 비아그라는 일반적으로 내약성이 우수하고 안전합니다. 비아그라를 복용하는 남성들이 보고하는 가장 흔한 부작용으로는 두통, 안면 홍조, 소화불량, 코막힘, 시력 변화(예: 시력에 푸른 색조가 나타나거나 파란색과 녹색을 구별하기 어려움)가 있습니다. 이러한 부작용은 보통 경미하거나 중등도이며 몇 시간 내에 사라집니다.
그러나 비아그라 자주 먹으면 의료 감독 없이 정기적으로 비아그라를 복용하면 심각한 건강 문제가 발생할 수 있습니다. 여기에는 다음이 포함될 수 있습니다.
지속발기증: 발기가 4시간 이상 지속되고 성적 자극과 관련이 없는 상태입니다. 지속발기증은 의학적 응급 상황이며 즉시 치료하지 않으면 음경에 영구적인 손상을 일으킬 수 있습니다.
심혈관 문제: 비아그라는 혈류에 영향을 줄 수 있으며 혈압이 갑자기 떨어질 수 있습니다. 이는 기존 심장 질환이 있는 사람이나 특정 약물을 복용하는 사람에게 위험할 수 있습니다. 심혈관 문제의 증상에는 흉통, 숨가쁨 또는 빠르거나 불규칙한 심장 박동이 포함될 수 있습니다.
청력 및 시력 문제: 드문 경우지만 비아그라는 갑작스런 청력 상실 또는 시력 상실을 유발할 수 있습니다. 비아그라를 복용하는 동안 갑작스러운 청력 또는 시력 문제가 발생하면 약물 복용을 중단하고 즉시 의사의 진료를 받아야 합니다.
알레르기 반응: 일부 사람들은 비아그라에 알레르기가 있을 수 있으며 두드러기, 호흡 곤란 또는 얼굴, 입술, 혀 또는 목의 붓기와 같은 증상을 경험할 수 있습니다. 이러한 증상이 나타나면 즉시 치료를 받아야 합니다.
의료 제공자의 지시에 따라 비아그라만 복용하고 권장 복용량을 초과하지 않는 것이 중요합니다. 의료 감독 없이 비아그라를 정기적으로 사용하는 것은 위험할 수 있으며 심각한 건강 문제를 일으킬 수 있습니다. 성 건강이나 복용 중인 약물에 대해 우려 사항이 있는 경우 의료 전문가와 상담하십시오.
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약국에서 비아그라 파나요? 많은 국가에서 비아그라(실데나필 구연산염)는 면허가 있는 의료 제공자의 처방전이 있어야만 구할 수 있으며 약국에서는 일반적으로 비아그라를 조제하기 위해 유효한 처방전이 필요합니다. 그러나 일부 국가에서는 비아그라 및 기타 유사한 약물을 처방전 없이 구입할 수 있습니다. 비아그라가 처방전 없이 구입할 수 있는지 또는 처방전이 필요한지 확인하려면 해당 지역의 규정을 확인하는 것이 가장 좋습니다. 어쨌든 비아그라나 다른 발기부전 치료제를 사용하기 전에 의료 제공자와 상담하는 것이 좋습니다.
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