原著者:Lindsay
翻译:Boya. Y
单车气候行(中国篇)
第二站:从张掖到西宁
独自出走的单车们总算是消停了,它们最终现身张掖(见上一段日志里我们等单车的部分)。和朋友欢度了最后一晚,第二天一早我们就离开了张掖,很快就到了乡间,路边都是待收割的作物。大部分时候我们都沿着梨园河走,每三十分钟左右就能看见一些水利发电设施。我觉得自己从没见过这么勤奋的河流。两段设施之间的河段似乎畅流无阻,但是我们马上就看到了一个小水库或者输送管道,它把水从高处引向低处。我想多了解一下这种技术——不是新技术,但是在美国没见过。我很想知道它对环境的影响以及发电的单位成本,因为乍看之下,这种技术不如我们之前看到的大型水坝水库那么具有破坏性。
下午我们经过一个路牌,上面写着:“中国裕固族多情走廊(Chinese Yugur Amorous Corridor)”,我们觉得他们是想说“自治(autonomous)”而非“多情(amorous)”,当然我们也做好准备以防路牌写的是实情。路边的绘画、雕塑以及横幅无不显示着我们正路过中国极为独特的一部分土地。日落之前我们到了肃南县,准备找个旅店,在那里我们读了些东西,发现裕固族人民并不是特别“多情”,他们实际上是一个少数民族,这里是他们的自治县。维基百科上说裕固族是维吾尔族的后代,他们在回鹘汗国灭亡之后逃至蒙古地区。肃南周边的社群信仰佛教,说突厥语。肃南带给我们很多惊喜——梨园河穿过肃南,河边的公园满是雕塑,人们晚上来此散步,天黑后桥面上闪耀着霓虹灯光。我们奢侈地订了一间每晚二十美金的房间。
第二天早上,骑到离肃南几千米远的地方,路面成了土路,我们开始走上坡,骑向这段旅途中的第一个山坳通道。上山路上越来越冷,我们还看见了很多牦牛。西藏的牦牛和塔吉克斯坦、吉尔吉斯斯坦的不一样——它的毛更加蓬松浓密,在我看来也更可爱些。谢天谢地我们在张掖夜市额外买了些衣服。日落前我们经过一片似乎是采矿营地的地方。之前在吉尔吉斯斯坦遇到的一位中国骑友帮我们写了个中文纸条,可以用来询问露营地点。我们在拿着纸条问营地里的女人。她听懂了,却没让我们搭帐篷,而是让我们住进了路边的过渡安置房。他们也给我俩做晚餐。那个时候我们才刚学会怎么说“要”和“有”,还经常弄混。幸运的是,语言上的隔阂弄拙成巧,那位妇女马上做好了洋葱炒蛋,我们还吃了米饭——比方便面好多了。我俩整晚都和那些人混在一起,练普通话,他们教我们从一数到十。这是我进入中国境内以来第一次真正和中国人相处。我意识到,每次来到一个国家,第一次与当地人打交道的经验能让我感受到这个国家的亲切。
醒来发现下雪了,新朋友们有些担心,但是我们觉得自己可以骑到下一个山坳,下坡到海拔低一点的地方,在那里会更舒适些。我们想得没错,但是下坡路特别冷,手脚都冻僵了,不得不停下来蹦蹦跳跳暖和身体。另一方面,我们发现自己又到了一个穆斯林小镇,进了一家面馆吃午饭。面馆里每个人都对我们充满好奇,饭还没吃完就跑过来热情地打招呼,然后又马上走了。我们借助手机应用,扫描汉字翻译出来,这才点了午餐,还和乐呵呵的店主合了照。然而午饭还没上桌,就有两个警察进了餐馆坐到我们桌子旁。他们不懂英语,所以其中一个离开去找了个英语老师回来。老师带来一个坏消息:这片区域外国人是禁止入内的,我们必须马上离开。两个警察态度友好,我们点头同意,包上头巾扫完午餐就走。离开之前问他们“禁区”的范围具体是哪里,但是即使拿着地图我们也没搞清。所以我们决定尽可能低调行事,不住旅店不进餐馆。急匆匆冲进路上的杂货店,屯够接下来几天的食物,也围头巾遮脸以防被看出是外国人(我们彻底蒙混过去了)。
我们离开小镇骑进了黑河边的峡谷,黑河是黄河的支流。河边一线的树叶子开始泛黄。峡谷不是个露营的好地方,尤其不利于隐匿行踪,但是我们最后还是在太阳下山前找到了合适的露营地,从路上是看不到我们的。第二天我们就骑出了峡谷流域,经过田地,人们在割草,整齐地堆成一垛来晒干。这些干草里肯定混了野薄荷,因为整个峡谷都飘着一股新鲜可口的清香。观察不同地方的人从事农活是很有趣的;在东欧大多数地方,人们把尖头桩子插地上,干草割下来堆上面,就像梵高画的干草垛一样。在美国,我们把干草捆起来。在塔吉克斯坦和吉尔吉斯斯坦我看见人们把干草铺在屋顶上。中国有些地方则把它攒成电线杆粗的一束,两束一捆,上面再放一束,形成一个倒V字。这些倒V字再堆成堆,这样一来,整片田野看上去像是点缀着干草帐篷似的。
上午晚些时候我们穿过了祁连山,我俩“伪装”起来,快速骑过小镇,唯恐我俩还在“禁区”里。在小镇里,我们右拐,骑向山脉,之前一直是沿着它行驶的。顺着一个又一个巧妙的之字路向上爬行。从昨天开始我们就在稳步爬坡了,但是坡度正好合适,我们进度不错。下午我们路过了一个山坳通道,意识到已经到了西藏。一排排经幡在佛龛上随风飘扬,一簇簇的箭插在地上(我觉得寓意可能是“戳穿愚昧”),中间穿插着更多经幡。佛香燃起,符纸满地。一群游客开车去了高处,摆好造型,一旁的标识上写着这个地方的海拔——4120米。我们当然得照张相,欣赏了一会儿风景,然后就从另一边下山了。
太阳落山前我们想找个地方露营,但却遇到了一些问题:在中国我们看到很多铁丝网篱笆,我们这次旅行还没在别的地方看到过。书上读过也听人说过,中国政府希望西藏牧民定居下来,他们改变自己传统的生活方式,以此为交换,政府提供房子和土地,用来放养动物。这样一来我俩找不到地方搭帐篷,最后拐上了一条小道,问路上遇到的人哪里可以搭帐篷。这一次,之前的纸条就没用了,因为这些人是西藏人,他们说安多藏语;就和我们一样,他们也不会普通话。所以我们只能拿手比划,附近帐篷里一对卖东西的夫妇指着他们帐篷外面羊睡觉的地方。然而我们包裹都还没打开,夫妇就示意我们跟着他俩过马路,去对面一栋标准的政府分配房,他们开门邀请我们入内。在我们看来,这应该就是他们的房子,但是他们更喜欢住帐篷。屋里有三间房,夫妇让我们住主屋,这里有木炉子和炕。他们生好火,又给我们做晚饭的水。另一间房里是一个看上去像神龛的东西,还有一个带着大喇叭的收音机(进了西藏我们在每家每户都能见着这个东西),还有一张毛泽东的照片,有点意思。
接下来一晚,我们和另一户人家待在一起,然而情况有些不同。我们穿过另一个海拔低一点的山坳通道,下山时一条河都没见着——地面湿润,像沼泽一样有泥塘,却没有水流。水从山上下来的时候似乎全部渗入了土壤。有些晚了,我们在路边一户人家门口停下来要水,一位藏族老妇站在外面,笑着邀请我俩进去,和女儿端茶烤饼招待我们。我俩很感谢,问哪里有水可以做饭,他们就从壶里倒出了热水——目前为止,我们发现冷水在中国真是不受待见(人们听说我们要喝冷水都非常吃惊)。现在已经很晚了,我们要赶快找个地方,所以试图询问哪里可以搭帐篷。普通话纸条没有用,所以我俩给他们看了帐篷的图片。他们弄懂了,但是我们不太确定人家是不是同意,接下来情况就有些让人困惑了。我们出去了一会儿,突然间一位更老的妇女拎着我们的东西跟了出来,把它们丢在单车旁,示意我们离开。
我们陷入了困境,因为太阳刚刚下山,我们既没有水又没地方睡,也觉得没法儿向这里的人求助。另外,一场风暴就在我们后方。所以我们继续骑车,希望在下雨前能找到水和一块营地。我们骑了十五分钟,一辆车停在了我们正前方。我们也停下来,一个男人开了们,我俩去问水。他毫不犹豫地拿起热水瓶往大卫的水壶里倒水。半升水确实很好,却不能让我们坚持多久。这个男人明显很担心我们,他告诉我们下一个小镇在四十千米之外,我们应该把单车绑车顶上,搭他的顺风车。我们很感谢他,但是这样不行,我们尽可能用普通话向他解释:我们有帐篷,只是缺水而已。他想了一会儿,指向路边一间房子,让我们跟着他。他速度很快我们差点就跟丢了,但是最后还是跟着他上了一条小路。等我们到的时候他手提一个热水壶,正在和那户人家讲话。
我们给这个友好的普通话翻译看了那张纸条,他问那户人家我们是否可以在这里露营。那户人家很乐意,我俩又打电话给懂藏语的朋友,让他告诉这户人家我们有食物有帐篷,只需要做饭的冷水和露营的地方。说清楚之后,我们的翻译朋友就离开了,这户人家邀请我们在火边坐下,请我们吃糌粑(青稞粉混上耗牛油),给我们热水泡方便面,接着领我们出门到“客篷”去——牧场上一个小小的帆布帐篷,中间有一个稍高的平台用来睡觉。因为外面寒风猎猎,还可能下雨,我们非常感激可以不用搭帐篷。
醒来的时候下雪了,我们慢悠悠地爬起来,想等它下完。然而雪却没有停的意思,所以最后我们逼着自己起床,和主人道别,骑向雪中。下了几小时的雪后开始下雨,我们正下坡去低一些的地方,总的来说这一段是旅途中比较糟糕的部分。然而快中午的时候雨停了,我们在蓝天下骑车。那天下午我们经过了几个煤矿开采加工工厂——卡车来来往往,满满一车都是的煤。我们可以看到一些机器,但是大部分地方的机器旁都有很大的蓝色篱笆挡住视线。下午我们面临一个抉择:顺着现在这条路继续走,但是随着我们越来越靠近西宁,它也会越来越拥挤;或者我们可以换一条稍微远一点的支路,路过中国最大的咸水湖青海湖——你都能猜到我们选的是哪条路了对吧。
支路很安静,偶有车辆经过,不久我们就可在右手边看到湖面。我们决定要当一个好游客,去沙岛风景区逛一逛,惊喜的发现可以从沙丘一路骑到湖边,路边立有之前为艺术节竖立的大雕像。青海湖景色壮阔——深蓝色的湖面映衬着远处的雪山,这让我们想起了塔吉克斯坦的佐库里湖——但是真正的高潮是“沙丘跳水”(dune diving)。我们爬到山丘顶端,努力避免陷下去,最后不得不从头发耳朵衣服口袋里往外掏沙子……果不其然,我们徘徊得太久,等离开公园的时候已经快日落了,而且还有风暴就要来了。我们只骑了一小会儿就在道路和铁轨旁发现了一些废弃的建筑,干净得出乎意料,我们终于又可以在屋檐下享受一晚,不用搭帐篷。
第二天放晴了,我们专注于通往西宁的最后一百三十公里路程。骑得很开心,因为有了新公路,我们可以走车辆很少的老公路。首先我们遇到了一群中国的单车爱好者,他们正绕着青海湖环行。这是国庆黄金周的第一天,所有人都在度假。接着我们继续骑,几乎一直顺着一条河的下游。在高原待了一周,我们回到了气候温和些的地方,海拔也低了。河两边的山丘都点缀着红、黄、橙色,你可以在某些山丘顶上看到塔。感觉我们正路过中国版的佛蒙特州,这勾起了我的思乡之情,也让我对自己现在所处的地方很是满意。
通往西宁的路穿过了一群工业城镇,骑单车也没那么享受了。漫天尘土飞扬,满路卡车轰鸣。我们对于中国车辆的鸣笛有些想法——司机们这样做是为了提醒周围车辆行人,以保障安全?他们难道不知道路是大家的,反而还在警告我们别挡道吗?卡车在有人的地方从不减速——他们靠着车喇叭一路横冲直撞。再往前骑了一阵,工业城镇少了,取而代之的是崭新的西宁外围城市。路边都是千篇一律的摩天大楼,上头悬着起重机,越建越高。据一位市民说,西宁人口在过去十年内翻了两番,但是新建的楼盘还是没有住户——它们就空在那里。
先是草原和西藏的游牧生活,接着突然转变成了喧嚣的工业城镇,再到空荡荡的砖塔,最后到西宁,这让我们感到有些不适。
《Ride for Climate》中文译文版权为City Atlas所有。
转载请注明。
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