原著者:David Kroodsma & Lindsay Fransen
译者:Boya. Y
David (图左) 和Lindsay(图右)
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
与David和Lindsay的相遇是在2014年冬的北京鸿芷咖啡馆,那时这对夫妇已经骑行穿过大半个中国从新疆喀什到了首都北京。David是单车气候行(Ride for Climate)的创始人,从斯坦福大学拿到环境科学硕士学位后,他曾当过环境记者、慈善顾问和气候研究员。2005年秋季,他告别了手头的研究工作,只身骑行前往火地岛,一路上做气候变化的演讲,同时写下气候变化对他所到的当地人民的影响。他的第一本书《The Bicycle Diaries》已经出版。而David也再一次上路。这一次,他们的目的地是中国。
单车气候行(中国篇)
第一站:从喀什到张掖
在中国远西地区,“傍晚”是个含混不清的概念;整个中国东西跨度和美国差不多,却统一使用北京时间。所以九月上旬的喀什,晚上九点之后日落,早上八点之后日出,适应起来着实有些困难,不过鉴于新疆某些地区私下里也按照当地时区计算时间(比北京时间晚两个小时,和吉尔吉斯斯坦以及塔吉克斯坦东部的时区一样),时间的问题也没有那么麻烦。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
来这里的第一天,我们都在休息、享用美食和上网消遣。之前在人烟稀少的帕米尔高原待了几周,现在一下子淹没在熙攘的人群、繁荣的商业和丰富的食物之中。我们听说接下来几天车票都因为某个神秘的中国节日而销售殆尽(后来才知道这是中秋节),所以也不急着赶去车站,也没定好接下来的行程,研究了一天的地图,最后决定坐火车去甘肃张掖,然后骑车穿过祁连山脉,到西藏高原北边的西宁去,接着再沿另一条风景美丽但是也曲折蜿蜒的路线骑向兰州,尽可能在青藏高原上待久点。然而,等我们到了车站,却发现接下来五天的票都卖完了。我们赶紧看日历,觉得这几天可以利用起来。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
就这样,我们先搞定了五天后的车票,然后开始在喀什四处游览。首先去的就是每周一次的动物市场——我从没在一个地方看到这么多肥尾羊,而且实话实说,场面有些乱哄哄的。有一些牲口被当场宰杀,我们亲眼看着一头羊在几分钟内从整只的状态被肢解成肉块。接下来,我们在自己居住的街道上看到了同样的场景——牲口切成块挂起来供人购买,不远处则绑着一头活羊。当最后一块肉卖光,旁边绑着的那只就会被当街屠宰。对此我的心情很复杂——在美国我因为各种原因几乎不怎么吃肉。在这里,基于其他各种各样的原因,别人给什么我就吃什么,通常都有肉。一方面,我很欣赏人与动物的密切关系。这种关系虽然不涉及情感,但是在食用当天,人类割开牲口的喉咙,送去也许不过几千米远的餐桌上,这种行为多少比成批装船,送去不知其名的屠宰场要更人性。不知道我们见到的这些畜牧产业会对环境造成什么影响,但是我觉得比起工厂化的农场,它可能对动物、人类、甚至土地的影响更小。然而,我还是有些难受,总觉得仅仅为了口腹之欲去杀死另一个生命,这从根本上就错了,因为一般来说我们都还有很多别的办法。然而在我们走过的一些地方,当地人确实没有别的办法,而且我觉得对牧人而言,吃肉也是最合理、最经济的选择了。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
看完动物市场,我们又参观了周日的集市,在回来的路上,我们散步经过了老城郭。一开始这地方显得有些荒凉,但是当我们沿着房子间的梯子爬了几步之后,映入眼帘的就是一片热闹的街区,尽管看上去像是要被拆除了。靠近城墙的地方四处都是奇怪的大探照灯,附近似乎要建一个公园。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
我们去夜市吃了几次晚餐——你可以从一个摊子晃到另一个,什么都吃一点:蒸饺、羊肉串、羊头汤(我们没喝,但是旅馆里的其他人喝了。他说味道鲜美,但是我狠不下心去吃一块富于情感表达的肉;你还是得有底线的……)、鹰嘴豆盖面条、火锅、手抓饭,还有各式各样的冰淇淋,可算是止渴解馋了,之前在“斯坦国”一直忽视着这股子馋劲儿。在喀什待了一晚之后我们发现:在这里吃一餐的花样,比帕米尔高原那三周的总和都多。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
在喀什待到一半我就病了,几天都躺在旅馆里。尽管生病是挺烦心的(尤其是城里还有那么多美食),但是从某个角度来说我正好找了个借口什么都不干,只和亲戚朋友通个网络电话、看看新闻(刷刷脸书)、读些关于中国的书,基本上都在消磨时光。在按计划离开的前一天,我们先到车站,把单车当做货物提前送走,这是听了其他骑友和旅馆员工的建议,他们说这是标准手续,单车会和我们同时到达,甚至更早。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
最后,是时候离开喀什了,我们打的去了车站,很顺利地上了火车,很快就在硬卧区安顿好了。火车的有趣之处就在于不同车厢的民族分部。每个硬卧厢有四到六个床位,非常舒服,非要说的话就是有点挤。硬卧厢大部分人是汉族人,尽管这辆列车正穿维吾尔族人口极多的新疆省。我们在火车里瞎逛,最后撞进了硬座区,突然间迎面扑来各种色彩和各式声音——这一节车厢的游客全几乎全是维吾尔族人,五颜六色的头巾、绣花帽、友好的挥手和微笑包围了我。一群人邀请我和他们一起坐在地板上交谈,我们坑坑巴巴地用半生不熟的土耳其语交谈着。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
半夜的时候,火车停靠车站,整整八个小时没动,这样可能赶不上乌鲁木齐的火车。大卫结交了一位略懂英语的女士,等第二天半夜,火车一到乌鲁木齐,她就带着我们改签车票。她也想帮忙在车站旁找间旅馆,但是带我们去的那家不接待外国人(宾馆能不能接待外宾还有些奇怪的规定)。现在已经凌晨两点了,而火车早上九点就开,我们决定根据“品牌认证”,到高速公路对面的那家宾馆。然而,这里路太复杂,我们不得已叫了的士。司机试图说服我俩去另一个“据称”更便宜的地方(不过车费更贵),但是我们拒绝了,因为不知道他会带我们去哪里。然而我们马上就后悔了,因为对面那家宾馆满员(接待的姑娘睡在桌后的简易床上,花了好久才醒来,挥着手说“不行!”)。去周围的宾馆一看也都如此。这个时候已经凌晨三点了。到了打车点,之前那个为了带人去神秘“便宜”旅店而和我们吵架的司机也不见了。现在不管去哪里都睡不了五个小时,所以我们做了个符合逻辑的决定,到之前那家宾馆,坐电梯往上,直到我们发现一个小凹室,铺了毯子,后面是安全出口,前面正好有门挡住,不会让大堂里的人看见,我们就在那里躺到天亮。虽然头顶上每隔几分钟就发出一阵尖锐的“哔哔”声、我还听到说话声,吓了一大跳,以为会被发现,但是我们睡得还不错,抖擞精神开始了下一次的火车之旅。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
我们终于在第三天午夜之前到到了目的地,张掖,这是河西走廊上一个人口百万的“小”城。我们的单车连个影子都没有,但是我们猜这种时候货运处肯定不会开门,第二天肯定能拿到车。万幸的是,我们排队遇到了一位美国和平队志愿者,很快我们就舒舒服服住进了他的空屋。第二天我们冲回火车站,连比划带猜,再加上谷歌翻译,最后打电话给了我们的“北京英雄”,阿尔文(一个朋友的朋友,他给了我们很多帮助),我们发现单车是另一个公司送的,我们需要打一个电话或者去收据上写的一个地方。招待我们的那位和平队志愿者雷恩斯找了个学生打电话。我们发现单车已经通过了张掖,运至省会兰州去做“安全检查”,要晚两天才到。这个消息让我们几近抓狂,同时也松了一口气,至少单车没丢,也很泄气,之前的车票问题,再加上单车延期,让我们没办法在多次入境签证的最后期限内去蒙古看看(我们的签证有效期一年,但是一次只能待三十天)。我们还在想要怎么办。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
不过那几天却是非常愉快的——和雷恩斯、另一位志愿者凯利以及其他老师学生一起享用了很多美食。我们也去学校交流,介绍了我们的旅程,还看了张掖最著名的大卧佛。那里景色优美,漫步于寺庙以及城市的其他地方让我们非常享受。张掖是一个大小适中的城市,这里的大学附近有许多美食。多谢热情好客的主人,我们觉得自己在中国中部完成了一次“软着陆”。单车最后终于到达(晚了三天或者晚了两个小时,看你怎么想了)。这个时候骑车上路太晚,所以我们和美国友人共度了最后一晚——一起看《冰雪奇缘》,我还烤了一些“饼干”,用的都是超市里能找到的零碎什物(荞麦燕麦巧克力棒大饼曲奇,有人想尝尝吗?)凯利的烘焙材料里刚好有苏打粉和肉桂——正是我要的。
Photo Credit: David Kroodsma
第二天一早我们就开始了中国境内第一段单车之旅——敬请阅读下一篇博文,骑车穿越青藏高原。
《Ride for Climate》中文译文版权为City Atlas所有。
转载请注明。
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